JemJam

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 10

Ahh, the last day!  Today is mostly hand sewing, so, set aside a little time and turn on some Law & Order: SVU!

Blindstitch or slipstitch the folded edge of the lining hem to the jacket hem at the topstitch.  Note, the lining's extra length will hang down from the coat hem, creating a bit of ease that will allow for movement when the jacket is worn.

 

 

Slipstitch or blindstitch the extra fold of the lining to the front facing to secure it.

 

 

 

 

Now, remove basting stitches from the pleat at the center-back lining.

If you are using snaps instead of Velcro for the front closure, sew them on now.

If you are using button tabs (I am), stitch a button to each of the 3 tabs on the wearer's left side at the markings that you transferred from the pattern.

 

 

 

We just completed a coat!  Wasn't that amazing?  

 

Are you ready to do another like I am?  I am going to start the rain jacket really soon!

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 9

We are almost done!  We are hemming the jacket and topstitching today.

To hem jacket, lift the lining out of the way. 

 

Fold and press the bottom edge of the jacket 1 1/2" to the wrong side, continuing the line of the hem edge from the facing's sewn bottom edge.

 

Let's topstitch! 

Topstitch the facing and the jacket hem at the same time, pinning the lining out of the way (so it's not stitched in this step).  Starting at the top inside edge of the facing, edgestitch/topstitch the facing's neckline edge.  

THE PIN IS LOCATED AT YOUR STARTING POINT: 

Begin sewing at marked location, pivot at the front corner to stitch down the front edge, pivot again at the bottom edge to stitch across the bottom of the facing.  When you reach the inside bottom edge of the facing, pivot again to start sewing up the facing's inside edge (you may have already topstitched this part, if so, do not repeat).  Stitch up until your needle is 1" from the hem edge, and then pivot again to stitch across the entire folded hem of the jacket.

 

--the pin is 1" from bottom edge, this is where you should pivot and continue around back of jacket.

Repeat the topstitching/edge-stitching of the facing when you reach the other side of the jacket.  

 

You may want to edge-stitch the entire neckline as well, which will help to keep the lining in place when the jacket is finished.

 

That's all for today!

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 8

Today we are assembling the hood and lining.

Grab your hood that you started a long time ago...

ATTENTION, IF YOU WANT TO MAKE A LITTLE HANGER FOR YOUR COAT, MAKE IT NOW AND BASTE IT TO YOUR HOOD.  I did not think of this until later and have not felt like undoing anything to add it, when I make the rain jacket, I will do it!

With right sides together, align edges of your hood to coat's neckline and baste with a 3/8" seam.

 

 

Let's get busy with the lining!

With right sides together, pin the lining to the jacket at the neck and front edges.  Be sure to match notches and seams.  Sandwich the hood between lining and jacket, pin as necessary.  Starting and ending at the facing's lower inside edge, sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Pivot at the bottom front corners and at the neckline's front corners.

 

 

 

Make sure that you remove all pins!  Trim seam allowances to ~1/4" and clip corners.

Turn jacket and lining right sides out through the bottom of the jacket.  Tuck the sleeve lining into the sleeves.  Gently push out corners at top and bottom edges of facing, press jacket at the neckline and at facing edges.

Now, to complete today's assignment, we need to hand-stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve.

Blindstitch or slipstitch the folded edge of the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem at the topstitching, 1" from the sleeve hem edge.  The lining's extra length will hang down a bit, creating a little ease that will allow for movement when jacket is worn.

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 7

Today, we are preparing the lining and the facing.

 

If you are using it, sew Velcro to the right side of wearer's LEFT FACING.  Center the velcro on the marks transferred from your pattern, I put a dab of a glue stick to hold in place while I sewed.  If you are using snaps, wait until later to apply.

 

 

Now finish the edge of the facings below the notch (about 2.5" in length).  I am using a serger, a zigzag stitch would be fine or a small bit of bias trim would do as well.

 

 

Get pieces #14 (FRONT LINING), pin to FRONT FACING (#3) along curved edge with right sides together, matching notches and raw edges.  Clip into the seam allowance of the facing as necessary to fit the curves together.

 

 

Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance, END STITCHING AT BOTTOM NOTCH, be sure to backstitch.  The lollipop pin is where your stitching should end.

 

 

Press seam allowances toward the lining.

 

Now, we need piece #13 BACK LINING.  Fold it in half, right sides together and run a basting stitch 1/2" from the fold.  

 

Open the lining and press the pleat to either side, we will later remove this stitch.

 

Attach the 2 front lining pieces to the back lining piece.  Stitch shoulder seams first.  

 

 

 

Then, do side seams.  Press seams open.

 

Next, we will set in the sleeves.  Be sure to trim 1" from the hem (this was to be done from the sleeve lining only). 

 

 

The sleeve lining will be prepared in the same manner as your main fabric sleeve.  For pics, refer to our previous day of sewing sleeves HERE.

Sew a row of gathering stitches 3/8" from the raw edge of the cap of one sleeve, starting and stopping at the side notches, be sure to leave thread tails on both ends (for now, ignore center notch on sleeve cap).  

Now, sew a second row of gathering stitches 1/4" below the first row (5/8" from the raw edge). 

Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, and pin the sides of the sleeve together.  Stitch sides with a 1/2" seam allowance.  

 

Press seams open and fold hem 1/2" to the wrong side, press.

 

 

Now, fold and press the bottom edge of lining 1/2" to wrong side.

 

 

 

 

Hood's up next!

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 6

We are gleefully doing sleeves today! 

Gather pieces #12 JACKET SLEEVE.  Right now, we only need sleeves for the main fabric.

Sew a row of gathering stitches 3/8" from the raw edge of the cap of one sleeve, starting and stopping at the side notches, be sure to leave thread tails on both ends (for now, ignore center notch on sleeve cap).  

 

Now, sew a second row of gathering stitches 1/4" below the first row (5/8" from the raw edge).  If you are using a laminated fabric, forgo the second row of gathering stitches.

 

 

For a better view of where to begin and end stitching, the pin heads are in place:

 

Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, and pin the sides of the sleeve together.  Stitch sides with a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Press seams open.

 

 

We will now hem our sleeves.  

Keep sleeve wrong side out, fold and press the sleeve's raw edge 1 1/2" to the wrong side.

 If you want to stitch by machine, topstitch 1" from the folded raw edge.

 

Alternatively, you may blindstitch the hem by hand.

 

Turn jacket wrong side out and sleeve right side out.  Pin sleeve to the inside of the armhole, be sure to match the underarm seam to the jacket's side seam and align the notches on both pieces.  Pull thread tails from gathering stitches as needed to keep sleeves smooth.  

At this point you may hand-baste sleeve if you find it necessary.  I did not need to do so, I just used pins.

 

Stitch sleeve to armhole with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Take your time with curves!

 

 

Press seams towards sleeve, trim seam allowances if desired.

Complete both sleeves and we are done for the day!  

We will start the lining on day 7!

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 5

Today's post is just pockets!  Nice and easy, like Sunday morning.

 

Gather pieces #10 POCKET & #11 POCKET LINING.

With right sides together, and their top edges aligned, stitch the top edge of the POCKET LINING to the top edge of the POCKET with a 1/2" seam allowance.

 

Press seams toward the lining

 

trim seam allowances to 1/8" near the pocket's side edges to reduce bulk.

 

Fold the pocket and lining in half, with right sides together and stitch with a 1/2" seam, leaving an opening at the bottom between the notches.

 

Optional and helpful hint:  When leaving an opening for turning the pocket right side out, start and end your stitching at the raw edge of the seam allowance.

 

 

Now, trim seam allowances to 1/8" (except along the opening) and clip corners.

 

Turn pockets right side out.  Press pockets well, make sure that the corners are nice and pointy.

 

 

Topstitch the pocket 1" from the top edge (the bottom of your pocket is where we left an opening for turning).

 

 

Pin each pocket to the jacket along the pocket-placement lines that you transferred from the pattern.  The pocket overlaps the side seam by approximately 1."

 

 

Edgestitch the sides and bottom of the pocket to the jacket, pivot at the corners and backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching.  

Now, your opening that we had for turning is closed.  

 

Hooray!  We now have a vest with pockets!  Almost a jacket!

 

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 4

Today's coat construction will be assembling the back of the jacket and sewing the shoulder and side seams.

 

Let's start on the back.  Get pieces #5 (BACK YOKE) and #7 (JACKET BACK).

With right sides together, pin BACK YOKE (#5) to JACKET BACK (#7).  

 

Stitch with 1/2" seams.  Press seam allowances towards shoulder, topstitch (grading seams as necessary).

 

 

 

Staystitch the neckline of the back jacket with a 3/8" seam from raw edge.

 

Now, we will sew shoulder seams:

 

With right sides together, pin the FRONT JACKET PANELS to BACK JACKET PANEL at shoulders.  **The front panels are shorter than the back right now, but it will all work out!

Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance.

 

 

Press seams towards the back, 

 

Grade seams and topstitch.

 

 

Repeat to complete both shoulders.

 

Let's wrap up today by sewing side seams.

 

Align and pin the two front jacket panels to the back jacket panel at the shoulders with right sides together.

Sew side seams with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Repeat for 2 side.  

Press seams open.

 

You basically have a vest at this point!

School Days Coat Sew-a-Long, Day 3

We are assembling the front jacket panels of our coat today.

First, we need pieces #1 (JACKET FRONT) and #4 (FRONT YOKE).  

 

 

 

Pin FRONT YOKE (#4) to its corresponding FRONT JACKET (#1) with right sides together matching edges (at the top).

 

 

 

Stitch the top edges (1/2" seam) and press seams toward shoulder.  I am grading my seams, so after pressing, I trimmed one of the seam allowances.  Edge/topstitch if you desire (I say yes!)

 

 

 

Now, get piece piece #2 FRONT PLACKET.

 

 

If you have not already, you should decide if you want to use snaps or Velcro for your front closure.  I opted for Velcro because I have a toddler and felt it would be easiest for her tiny hands to handle.  If you are using snaps, you will sew them on later, just make sure that you have marked the spots for them.

 

We will apply Velcro's scratchy sides to the wearer's right FRONT PLACKET on the right side of the fabric.

I suggest marking your right (versus left) side of your coat, it will prevent confusion.

 

 

Cut 2 squares of Velcro and center the Velcro on your markings from pattern.  The squares are too little to pin effectively and too slippery to stay in place, so I used a little bit of a glue stick to hold it down without moving.  Sew Velcro into place, I stitched around each square two times.

 

Gather your tabs (you remember, the ones that took half an episode of Law & Order:SVU to assemble). Pin tabs to the FRONT JACKET piece with right sides together, making sure that bottom edge of each tab matches a placement notch on the jacket front. Tabs with buttonholes should be pinned to the wearer's right FRONT JACKET (**remember, in my photos, I have not sewn buttonholes yet, it is best to have done buttonholes by this point).

Place tabs on each the right and left of your FRONT JACKET pieces.

 

In the photo below, the pin is noting where a placement notch is located.

 

 

 

 

Stitch tabs to the jacket with a 3/8" seam, you may wish to stitch over the ends several times for reinforcement.

Repeat tab placement and stitching for second side of jacket front.

 

With right sides together, align and pin the FRONT PLACKET to the JACKET FRONT.

 

Tabs are in place on both sides (left and right).

 

Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Press the seam allowances from the button tabs toward the side seam.  Grade seams.

Edge/topstitch the seam on the PLACKET side, be sure not to catch tabs in your topstitching.

 

 

Edgestitching in place..

 

Trim the seam allowances from the placket seam to 1/8" at the neckline to reduce bulk.

 

Neckline before trimming:

 

Neckline after trimming, there's a chance that I was using an electric knife or something similar...

 

Staystitch the neckline of the front jacket 3/8" from the raw edge, I use a regular stitch length.

 

 

Repeat to complete both sides of the front jacket.

It's already beginning to look like a coat!