JemJam

Sew Along, Origami Bag!

It's time to make some zipper bags!  Get your fabric and interfacing cut and fused and open that zipper!

 

For one bag, you should have 7 pieces of fabric:  2 panel A pieces, 2 panel B pieces, 2 lining pieces and a tab.

Take one PANEL A and one PANEL B and match the the raw edges (the length should be the same for the sides that you are matching) right sides together and stitch a 1/2" seam, backstitch at each end.  

Press seams open and now topstitch (1/4") on both sides of the seam.  

 

Repeat for the second set of PANELS A & B to complete your EXTERIOR PANELS.

 

Grab your zipper and let's get down to business!

Take each exterior panel and either draw a line with a fabric marking utensil OR do like me and just sew a straight line to mark 1/4" from the top raw edge.

Place zipper face down onto the right side of the first exterior panel with the zipper head 1/2" from the side raw edge of panel A. Pin zipper in place.  

Stitch 1/8" from the zipper coils, starting and stopping 1/2" in from each side edge of the exterior panel, backstitching at both ends.  

When approaching the end of the zipper (near the zipper head), you may find it easier to sew over the zipper if you stop with your needle down and unzip a little past your presser foot.

Place the first lining panel right sides together with the first exterior panel, sandwiching the zipper in between.  Pin along the top edges of the matched panels.

With the interfaced side of the exterior panel facing up, sew over the stitching that attached the zipper, starting and stopping 1/2" from each side edge, be sure to backstitch at each end.

Flip lining over the zipper, matching the wrong sides of the lining and the exterior panels, pin them together, press panels away from the zipper, pressing under the 1/2" unstitched fabric at each end.

On the right side of the exterior panel, starting and stopping 1/2" from each side edge, topstitch 1/4" from the seam that attached the zipper.  Backstitch at each end.

Repeat zipper installation steps to attach the SECOND EXTERIOR and LINING PANELS to the other side of zipper, do not twist your zipper.

With your exterior panels facing up, lay the panels on a flat on a flat surface, spreading each set of exterior and lining panels away from the zipper.  Measure 1/2" in from the side edges along the bottom of the zipper and make a mark on the zipper coils.

Bar tack over the coils to make a new zipper stop (I did mine a second time after taking this photo, it looked rather weak).  *Practice your bar tack on a scrap if you've never used it on your machine before).

Trim the excess zipper, leaving a 1" tail beyond your bar tack.  Now open the zipper.  

Yea!  You just installed a zipper!!  Now let's make the bag!

Make your tab!  I will go over this fast and have no pictures...

Fold tab in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together, press a crease along the folded edge.  Open tab and fold each long edge in to meet the center crease, and press.  Fold the tab in half again at the center crease to enclose the raw edges and press.  Pin the folded edges.  Edgestitch down each of the folded edges, backstitch at each end.  Fold tab in half, matching the short ends, pin.

On the right side of one of the exterior panels, measure and mark 1" down along the side edge where the top of the zipper is located.  Place the pinned ends of the tab even with the side edge of the exterior panel below the mark and pin in place.  Machine baste a 1/4" seam to secure the tab.

I did less than a 1/4" seam due to embroidery stitches...

UNZIP YOUR ZIPPER HALFWAY NOW.

Separate the exterior from the lining panels.  To keep the lining out of your way while you stitch the exterior panels, place the lining panels right sides together, matching the raw edges and pin in place.  Then fold the unstitched edges at the top of the lining panels in toward the center of the panel.  Pin.  I found pinning this out of the way to be the fussiest, but it is necessary, just be sure that the lining fabric is out of your way.

 

Place the exterior panels right sides together, matching bot the raw and the unstitched edges, pin in place.  Starting and stopping at the top folded edge on each end of the zipper, stich a 1/2" seam down both sides and across the bottom edges.  Backstitch at each end.

 

I do feel like I started *just* a little higher than I should have (like 1/4")...

Trim all four corners in the seam allowance, do not clip into your stitching.  Press seams open.

Unpin the lining panels at each end of the zipper.  Match the edges, right sides together and pin in place.  Starting and stopping just under the zipper coils, stitch a 1/2" seam down both sides and across the bottom edges.  Leave a 4" opening centered on the bottom edge for turning the bag right side out, be sure to backstitch at each end. 

Trim all four corners in the seam allowance, do not clip into your stitching.  Press seams open. 

Okay, let's make some gussets!

With the right sides of the exterior panels together, match the side and bottom seams to form a triangle in the corner, pin seams in place.

inside view...

 

outside view...

Measure and mark from the point of the corner along the side seam using the measurements from the book (page 51).  Draw a straight line across the corner at the mark. 

Stitch along the marked line and backstitch at each end.

Trim the corner to create a 1/2" seam allowance.

Repeat gusset steps for the other side of exterior AND for the lining to give yourself four gussets.

 

To complete zipper bag, turn the bag right side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining.  Fold the edge of the opening under 1/2" toward teh wrong side and press.  Pin the edges together and edge stitch the opening closed. 

Push the lining down inside the exterior.  Use a turning tool to gently push out corners.  Smooth the lining and exterior at the top open end of the zipper and pin them together.  Topstitch across the side seam, matching the topstitching already in place (this will help hold the lining in place).  Only do it on the one side.  I did not take a picture!  My apologies.

Anyhow, you just made yourself a dang zipper bag!  Open a bottle of wine and celebrate!  Better yet, you should be able to fit a bottle in a few of these bags! 

 

 

Sew Along, Reversible Everyday Shopper!

As promised, I am doing a quick sew along for the February bag for the SS Monthly Bag Challenge.

Well, I finished my bag a week ago and just now feel like posting the sew along, actually, I would like to cut out my dress, but, it's cold today anyhow!

This bag is categorized as easy, and it is!  I didn't even need to use the book (I've made plenty of bags in my little sewing life).  I hope that this will help anyone new to sewing and/or making bags, there are only 2 illustrations for this project in the book...

Let's get started.  Have all of your pieces cut and fused with interfacing as necessary.

We will make POCKETS first.  You should have 4 pocket panels, place 2 of your panels RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, matching all edges, pin and stitch along the top edge with a 1/2" seam allowance.

 

Turn the pocket panel right side out and press the top edge.  Topstitch 1/4" from the top edge.  Now, match the sides and bottom edges, pin and machine baste a 1/4" seam down both sides and across the bottom of the pocket panels.  

Place the pocket onto the RIGHT side of one of the exterior main panels, match the sides and bottom edges. Pin and machine baste a 1/4" seam to hold the pocket in place.  **I skipped the basting of the pocket together and just basted the pocket to the main panel with careful pinning.

We will work with the exterior pieces for now, so we will get back to the 2nd pocket soon.  Gather your exterior main panels and side panels.  Place one main panel and one side panel RIGHT sides together, matching the long side edges and pin, the wide edge of the side panel should be the bottom.  Stitch a 1/2" seam where you pinned, but stop 1/2" from the bottom edge (I marked 1/2" so I knew where to stop).

 

Here's the side panel pinned to the main panel.

Now, attach the second exterior side panel to your remaining exterior main panel, then attach side panel to main panel to complete the exterior (remember to stop 1/2" from the bottom edge each time).  You should have all four exterior pieces attached together at this point.  Press all seam allowances open.

Get your EXTERIOR BOTTOM PANEL.  Place one long edge of the exterior bottom panel and the bottom edge fo one main panel RIGHT sides together, matching the raw edges and pin.  Stitch with a 1/2" seam along the pinned edge, starting AND stopping 1/2" from each end (I marked with a pencil), be sure to backstitch at each end.

Next, do a short edge in the same manner.  Repeat to do all four sides of the bottom panel.

At this point, I would turn the bag right sides out to make sure that it looks good on the bottom and that there are no holes from attaching the bottom, if so, just sew where it needs it.  Now, turn back to wrong sides out, trim the corners (of the bottom) in the seam allowance, do not clip the stitching.  Turn bag right side out.

Now, starting with the interior pieces, make the pocket, attach pocket to interior main panel, attach main panels and side panels together and bottom panel to the bag.

If you cut your pieces as recommended in the book, your interior main and pocket panels are the same fabric and looks like this: 

To make the handles, you will need to get your handle pieces and the 2 fusible fleece pieces that you cut for it.  Fold the handle in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press a crease along the folded edge.  Open the handle and fold each long edge in to meet the center crease and press.  Open the panel and press the fusible fleece to the edge of the handle, it should fit inside the first crease...

Now, refold the handle for stitching (Fold edges to center and fold over once more).  Topstitch a 1/4" seam along EACH folded edge.  Yes, your short ends are not finished, we will take care of that!

The handles of this bag are flat and wide, to make your handles a little more comfortable, you can reinforce them now.  If you do this step, you should be using a strong needle (size 14 or 16) as the home dec weight and fusible fleece gets quite thick.  To proceed with this step, find the center of your handle--fold it in half, matching the short raw ends.  Press at the folded edge to mark the center, open the handle and mark 1.5" on each side of the center crease.  

In the photo, I used pins for a better visual, use a fabric marking tool to make your marks.

Fold the handle between the two marks, matching the long folded edges and pin in place, pinning will be difficult, again, because of thickness.  

Begin stitching, following the original topstitching line between the two marks, backstitch at each end.  If your machine can't handle it, just skip it or find a machine that can!

Repeat above steps for the handles to complete them both.  

To attach handles to the bag, get your exterior main panel.  Measure along the top edge 1.5" in from each of the side seams (repeat this for the other side of your exterior main panel).

My mark is in white.

Place one short end of the first handle on the RIGHT side of the first exterior main panel with the outside edge of the main panel.  

(in the photo below, I used a flower pin to note where the 1.5" marking is)

Place the opposite short end of the same handle to the inside of the other mark, be sure that you do not twist your handle.  Pin and machine baste both ends a 1/4" seam, now remove pins.

Repeat handle marking and placement (and basting) for the other side of your exterior main panel.

Almost there!

Take your two bag pieces, make sure that the exterior is RIGHT side out and the interior is WRONG side out.  Slide the interior piece over the exterior, your pockets should not be touching each other (or on the same sides), unless, that's what you want.  You probably do not want that...

Make sure that your handles are tucked inside the bag, between the two layers not sticking out!  Match the top edges and all seams & pin along the top edges.  Make two marks (on your bag) inside one of your handles, you will start stitching at one mark and stop at the next.  

(I mark 1/4"-1/2" away from my handles)

Stitch a 1/2" seam around the top of your bag, beginning and ending at the marks that you just made, be sure to backstitch at each end.

Now, turn your bag right side out by pulling the exterior and interior pieces through the opening at the top.  Push the interior piece down inside the exterior.  Fold each side of the opening under 1/2" toward the wrong side (inside), press well and pin.  While you are at it, press the entire top edge because you will be topstitching it all.

Topstitch 1/4" from the top edge completely around the bag to close the opening.  

Here's a close-up of my topstitching, a piece of the exterior and a piece of the interior.

Hot diggity!  You've got a new bag!  It's large and in charge!

 

There are just 6 days left to complete your REVERSIBLE EVERYDAY SHOPPER, take pictures and upload to the Flickr group to be eligible to win a gift certificate from this month's sponsors:  Above All Fabric and Fat Quarter Shop!  There will be two people randomly selected!  

 

If you have no idea what's going on here, read this post about the Style Stitches Monthly Bag Challenge 2011 hosted by me!

 

Next month is March and we are doing zipper bags!  I will post a sew along soon after the month begins!

 

Sew Along, Cosmo Bag! Part 2, the Interior

We are forging on with our Cosmo bag!  If you are just joining us, we started the first part of this bag here.

Let's get started on preparing the lining pieces.

Grab your lining pocket panels--get one with interfacing and one without interfacing.  Place them right sides together, pin at the top edges and sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.

Turn your pocket right side out and press along top edge.  Topstitch 1/2" from the top edge, backstitch at each end.  

 

 

Fold the pocket panel in half lengthwise and gently press a crease (you may do the pressing with your hands), this is to mark the center of the pocket.  Grab one of your lining panels.  I'll wait...

Place the pocket onto the right side of the lining panel, matching the side and bottom edges.  Pin and stitch down the center crease to divide you pocket into 2 sections, be sure to backstitch at each end.  

Now pin and machine baste a 1/4" seam down both sides and across the bottom.  This will hold your pockets in place.

**I do these steps in a different order from the book, I feel stitching your center first and then smoothing your pocket out onto your panel insures that there will be no bumps or billows.  Or both.

Please repeat above steps to make second pocket and attach to the other lining panel.

 

To make the lining of the bag, refer to step 6 in the book...I'll go very fast here...

 

Get your 4 remaining handle pieces.  With one lining panel and one left handle right sides together, pin and sew a 1/2" seam, easing the edges around the curve.  Next, do the right handle.  Press and topstitch as you did on the exterior handles.

Complete the steps by sewing handle tops together, stay-stitching, clipping, and folding/pressing in clipped edges.  Repeat for second lining panel/handles.

Now, you need to attach the side and bottom panels to the lining panels as you did with the exterior fabric, refer to steps 8 & 9 in the book to do so.

 

Let's make the button loop!

Get your button loop piece, it should be the last man standing...

Fold the button loop piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, press a crease along the folded edge. Open the loop, fold each long edge in to meet the center crease, press.

Edge stitch down each long edge, backstitch at each end.

Fold loop in half, matching the short ends.  Then, flip the end lying on top over to the side, placing the finished edges side by side.  Overlap the side edges by 1/8" and pin together.  Measure and mark 2 3/4" up from the raw ends along the overlapped edges of the loop.  

Now, edge stitch up the overlapped edges from the raw end to the mark, back stitch at each end.

Fold the top of the loop to form a triangle and press the loop flat.  Edge stitch across the bottom of the triangle, backstitch at each end.

Sew a gathering stitch 1/2" from the edge, across the raw ends of the loop flat.  Pull the bobbin thread to gather the ends in to measure 1 1/2".  Knot off each set of bobbin threads to insure that they do not become loose.

 

Center the gathered end of the loop on the top edge on one of the bands, right sides together.  Pin and machine baste to loop in place.

 

Now, we will make these pieces look like a bag!  Let's get to it!

With the exterior right side out and the lining wrong side out, slide the lining over the exterior, matching the side seams.  Pin them together around the outside of the handles and across the top of the side panels.  Stitch a 1/2" seam completely around the pinned edges.  Backstitch at each end.  Sorry guys, no picture!

Clip into the seam allowance every 3/4" along the curved edge.  Do not clip into your stitching.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening on the inside of one of the handles, pushing the lining down inside the exterior of the bag.  Press well.

Match the exterior and lining folded edges on the inside of the first handle and pin together.  

Edge stitch along the matched edges.  Backstitch at each end.  Repeat this step to finish the inside edges of the other handle, but first pull out the button loop from your bag sandwich.

**NOTE: This seems to be the most tedious of all of the steps, go slowly, press and pin well.  You may find yourself doing a little bits at a time of pressing, pinning & sewing.  Do it in a manner in which you feel comfortable and doesn't stress you.**

 

Attach your button by measuring and marking 2 1/2" down from the top edge along the center on the front of the bag.  Stitch your button on the mark!

 

OMG!  Immediately fill up that bag!

 

Okay, it's a big bag, sometimes we need big stuff in our life, right??  

Yes.

 

Tonight's the night, guys!  It's the last day to submit your Cosmo Bag photo to the Flickr group to be eligible to win a gift certificate from this month's sponsors:  Above All Fabric and Fat Quarter Shop!  

I'll post tomorrow morning the details of the bag for February, along with the 2 randomly selected winners that completed their bag in January!  

If you have no idea what's going on here, read this post about the Style Stitches Monthly Bag Challenge 2011 hosted by me!

 

There's snow and ice coming!  If the storm is as bad as predicted, and I do not have power, I will not post.

 

Sew Along, Cosmo Bag! Part 1, the Exterior

I've decided to make a quick sew along for the Cosmo bag from Style Stitches.  

If you are participating in the challenge for January, there's still time!  Start cutting and fusing now, it takes the longest, sewing the bag is not as time consuming.  I promise.

 

Okay, now that you've fused your interfacing to your fabric, let's start sewing!  Mark your pleats on the wrong side of your exterior fabric, proceed by sewing pleats, here's the first pleat:

 

After sewing all 3 pleats, it should look like this on the back:

After sewing all 3 pleats per panel, press each pleat on the interfaced side and center the fabric evenly over the stitching line.  Machine baste a 1/4" seam across the top of the pinned pleats.  

It should look like this on the back:

 

Here's the front with basting stitch on top.  

 

Next, with right sides together, sew on your band where you just made pleats.  Pin well to ensure a great fit and go slowly!  

 

Cut small notches into the seam allowance, press well and topstitch.

 

Now, we will attach the handles.  Get one left and one right handle.  We will first attach the left handle.  With right sides together, place handle to the main panel as illustrated in the book and photo below.  Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Pin and go slowly, backstitch at beginning and end as well.

 

Press seam allowance towards the handle and topstitch 1/8" away from seam.  

Next, do the right handle in the same manner.  

Take the handles and place them right sides together at the top and sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Press seam open.

Repeat above handles steps with the other exterior panel to have four handle pieces sewn into place.  You should have 4 handles left to sew (later).

 

Stay stitch 3/8" from the inside edge of handles and band.  If unfamiliar, stay stitching is a stitch that will be unseen, it keeps curves from stretching as you sew, use your regular stitch length for this task (I used a contrast thread for visibility in pics). 

 

Clip every 1/2" - 3/4", do not clip into stitching, clips should be made where you just stay-stitched.  The clips will help your curves smooth nicely when you sew.

Now, fold the clipped edges in toward the wrong side on the inside edge and top of the band, press well.  (no picture)

Repeat for second exterior panel.

 

Let's make the side pockets!  

Get one side pocket and side pocket lining panel and place right sides together, match the top edges (they are not the same length).  Stitch a 1/2" seam across the top, press seam allowance toward lining.  

Flip lining over the side pocket panel, fold it back at the top edge of the seam allowance toward the wrong side.  Match the bottom edges of the lining and side pocket panels, which will leave a 1/2" of the lining showing across the top of the pocket.

Press and pin edges together.  Now, machine baste a 1/4" seam down both sides and across the bottom edges.

 

Place the lining side of the side pocket onto the right side of the first exterior side panel, matching the side and bottom edges.  Pin & machine baste a 1/4" seam down the sides and across the bottom edges.

Please note that my fabric for exterior pocket is the same as my main exterior, more than likely, you did not cut yours this way.

Repeat above side pocket/panel steps for your second side.

We will attach the exterior side and main panels now.

Place the first main and side panels right sides together, be sure to match the long side edges and pin in place.  Stitch together with a 1/2" seam allowance down the pinned edges begin at the top and stop 1/2" from the bottom edge (I made a mark for my stopping point).  Please backstitch at each end.

 

Make clips into the seam allowance around the curved edge every 3/4", this allows your seam to lay flat later. Be sure that you do not clip into your stitching.  Now, attach your second main panel to the other side of your side panel.  Don't forget to stop 1/2" from the bottom edge, you need that clearance for attaching your bottom panel.

Repeat these steps to attach your second side panel to both exterior panels.  

Press all seam allowances open, I feel that there will be regret if you skip this step.

To attach the bottom panel, take one long edge of the exterior bottom panel and the bottom edge of one main panel right sides together, matching raw edges, pin in place.  Sew a 1/2" seam along the pinned edge, starting and stopping 1/2" from each end of the bottom panel, backstitch at each end.

Again, I make 1/2" marks as a guide...

Next, do the above steps for a short edge, then the other long edge, finish by doing the last short edge, make sure that your seams are open from your exterior panel as illustrated in the book.

Once you are satisfied with your attachment of the bottom panel, trim the bottom corners in the seam allowance without clipping into your stitching.

Turn the exterior of the bag right side out, push out corners and press.  It's starting to look like a bag now!

I'm ending this post here because it's a long one!  Follow me for part 2 of the Cosmo Bag Sew Along!